Glaciers, Bears, and Smoked Salmon: A Chef’s Guide to Southeast Alaska

She started her culinary career at the age of 51. She was among the first “career change” students at the Culinary Institute of America—opting to retire from a successful career in healthcare and epidemiology to chase a lifelong dream of becoming a chef. 

“When you put on a toque [chef’s hat] no one can tell how old you are; the instructors are completely agnostic, you just have to clean 100 potatoes in 10 minutes like everyone else,” says Kelly.

At the end of her training, Kelly accepted a position running the CIA’s health and wellness initiatives, only to be recruited soon after by Regent Cruises to develop their cooking classes and a culinary curriculum. 

For obvious reasons, summer is a popular time to visit the state, but there’s a case to be made for fall, when the colors are vibrant and changing fast, and you can still get a solid eight to 10 hours of daylight—though you’re almost sure to encounter some rain.

Whatever the time of year, Kelly’s quick to note that it’s best to enjoy the place on its own terms. 

“It’s all very authentic in Alaska and rustic by nature, so don’t think like a tourist, think like a local. Appreciate the indigenousness of the food. That’s the key to having a great experience here,” she says. 

These are Kelly’s top activities for Sitka, Juneau, and Ketchikan—three towns in southeast Alaska, near British Columbia—in her own words. 

Sitka 

Sitka National Historical Park has an impressive totem pole collection and offers a nice overview of the origins of the modern Tlingit culture. It’s also a great place to see a traditional dugout canoe. 

Hike the Indian River Trail to the Indian River Falls in Tongass National Forest. Considered a mellow hike, this low elevation walk follows the water up through the valley to the picturesque 70-foot Indian River Falls The trail is a great opportunity to see birds, large trees, and wildlife.  

The Alaska Raptor Center, which provides medical treatment to over 200 birds injured each year, is a great option for bird lovers. I also love the Fortress of the Bear; it’s a rescue center which protects and cares for orphaned bear cubs. 

Juneau 

Any visit here must include a hike to the beautiful Mendenhall Glacier. It is known as the most iconic attraction in Juneau. But, the most impressive is the Herbert Glacier, the fifth largest icefield in North America, and it is best seen via helicopter. It feeds 38 major glaciers including the aforementioned Mendenhall Glacier and sits 2,000 feet above the town of Juneau. 

Many tours land right on the ice where tourists can walk around on the glacier, take pictures, and drink fresh glacier water. Locals describe the experience as a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity and some even liken it to what it must be like to explore the moon.

Taku Smokeries has a wonderful two-decade relationship of mutual respect with the local fisherman and has built a community around salmon and seafood. They utilize a unique “cryovac” packing system that keeps the product fresh. I also like Alaska Seafood, which is a fabulous seafood source to get all kinds of Alaska fish and seafood products online. They have a storefront in Juneau; it’s a bit of a distance from town, but definitely worth a visit.

Ketchikan 

Start with a ride on the Bering Sea Crab Fishermen’s tour, a three-hour crab tour aboard a boat actually used in the “Deadliest Catch” television series.  

Visit Creek Street, a picturesque town built on top of Ketchikan Creek and known to have the best shopping in the area. Make sure to swing by the Chief Johnson Totem Pole while there—it’s one of the most well-known totem poles in the world.

The Alaska Rainforest Sanctuary is a cool 40-acre rainforest reserve where visitors can photograph eagles up close and watch an expert native totem pole carver at work.